Hot Tub Spa Parts | Troubleshooting Main | Hot Tub & Spa Troubleshooting

Hot Tub & Spa Trouble-Shooting

At Poolandspacentre we try to help in whichever way we can, this troubleshooting guide is for reference only as there are as you can well imagine a huge variety of hot tubs and spas with varying systems configurations, therefore please realise that the wiring and equipment configuration described herein represents the "average" spa equipment pack, not all.

This section is presented for the do-it-yourselfer who needs some help either troubleshooting or repairing their own hot tub spa. We accept no responsibility for the information below, it is purely to be used as a guide and at your own discretion. Here we are assuming that if you have chosen to work on your own unit, you have a basic knowledge of electricity. Your unit may vary significantly from the components described below. If you are in doubt as to how to properly troubleshoot or repair your specific unit, please contact a local spa professional or a licensed electrician in your area.

Please remember that water and electricity are a deadly combination and do not mix.

Use any of the information contained herein AT YOUR OWN RISK. We will not be held liable for any injuries that may result from the troubleshooting or installation of any electrical components in your hot tub spa unit.

Anyway now that the legal side is covered, lets try and help you!!

Safety is key when servicing any spa or spa control panel. Remember, safety comes first for you. Please take all necessary precautions before attempting any repairs. Wiring checks are the first step to ensure safety and proper function before beginning service on a unit.

The first thing is to do is to identify the main sympton from the list below:

RCD Associated Problems

Spa does not run, no power, nothing works?
RCD keeps tripping after start up, or the power trips out intermittently?

Hot Tub Heater Associated Problems

How do I test if my heater/ heater element is working correctly?
Heater Failure - Due to Water Flow?
Total Lack of Heat, spa heater does not work?
Water Gets Too Hot, excessive heat?
What do the sensors cables on my heater do?
How do I test the M7 Sensors?
Heater Union Leak?

Spa Touch Pad / Topside Control Associated Problems

What is the preliminary check list for troubleshooting topsides?
Touch pad is blank?
Touch pad is displaying a message or has flashing dots or is flashing different colours?
Touch pad is unreadable or digits missing?
Touch pad does not respond to touch?
My touch pad is working but my blower, pump two, pump one high speed, heater or light is not?
How do I replace the Topside Bulb Replacement (on Balboa topsides?
Click here - To see how to correctly fit a Topside Panel
Click here - To see how to replace a Topside front face / decal

Pump Associated Problems

How can i tell if my pump is faulty?
Pump does not run at all?
No water flow; pump motor humming?
No low speed pump; no ozonator function?
Pump is leaking?
How do I remove my pump?
How do install or open my wet end?
How do I replace the capacitor?
How do I rewire my pump?
How do I replace a pump seal?

Spa PCB Associated Problems

What are the typical PCB output capabilities?
How to replace a system Circuit Board?
How do I identify my PCB Board?

Hot Tub Blower Associated Problems - (click below)

Air Blower Does Not Function - No blower?
Air Blower Does Not Function - Continuous blower?

4) If power is present at blower receptacle, inspect blower cord for damage and replace if necessary. If the cord checks good, replace blower assembly or blower motor.

Continuous blower.

A) Check for voltage at blower air switch with blower selected both on and off. If output voltage does not change when switched, disconnect output wire. If voltage is still present at output terminal, replace board. If voltage is not present at output terminal but is present on the wire that was removed, the output wiring is shorted. Replace

No light

Before doing the below check the fundamentals, check the bulb is in the bulb holder correctly.

If it is:

1) Check for 12vac at light pigtail. If the 12vac tests correctly, replace the bulb.

2) If there is no voltage, go to output of light. If this checks good, replace light transformer.

3) If there is no output from the light, check the input voltage.

4) If the input to the light is incorrect, check the light fuse. Replace as necessary. If the fuse blows again, isolate the light transformer from the pump air switch by disconnecting the output wire. If this keeps fuse from blowing, reconnect and then isolate transformer output by disconnecting either output wire. If fuse blows, replace transformer. If fuse remains good, inspect and replace light harness.

5) If the fuse checks good but there is still no power to light, either there is an internal wiring issue or there are other symptoms that have not been discovered. Operate unit completely and trouble shoot based on new findings. If unit checks good in all other functions, you have an internal wiring or circuit board malfunction.

No ozone

Ozones last about 18 months

1) Ozone will go to earth, once activated most commonly caused by water entering ozone electrics. No water should pass through the ozone.          
2) The ozone fails to illuminate when spa is on its filter cycle. The UV lamp has failed, ozonator has become useless - replace ozonator.

3) Ozone only operates with the low speed pump. If the low speed pump operates correctly, check for power at the ozone receptacle. If good, inspect cord for damage and replace as necessary. If cord checks good, replace the ozonator. If low speed also does not operate, correct this first. Check the low speed capacitor.

4) If there is no output from ozone receptacle with low speed energized, then there is an internal wiring or circuit board problem.

Low water flow.

1.Ensure spa is filled to the correct water level. Bring up to recommended level if necessary.
.
2. Check filters are clean and secured in correctly, If flow is normal with filter removed, then clean filter cartridge, or replace if more than 1 year old. If flow is still low, proceed to 3).

3.Check all gate valves are fully open.

4. Check all jets for are fully open and free flowing, Check for obstructed or misadjusted jets.

5.Check pump is kicking in when it is supposed to and a good flow is present.

6.Inspect the impeller of the pump for any obstructions or debris . Also check rear end to ensure the impeller can turn freely. Plug the pump in dry to monitor its movement.

7. Replace pump and re-test.

Poor or little filtration

This can be down to a build up of scale in the jets - remove the jets you can, and see if flow increases - if it does clean the jets and ring for advice on 01746 710475.

1.Make sure the water level is at the correct level.

2. Check the filters to ensure they are clean. Check the individual  segments for build up of grime and debris

3. Check to see if water is travelling down the filter and see how strong the flow of water is by tearing up some small pieces of paper then flaking them into the water to watch their movement.

4. Remove the paper from the spa. Remove the filters from housing, check (visually) to see if a vortex is apparent and how strong it is. (Physically) put your hand over the holes in the bottom to feel for suction.

5. If you have found there to be little or poor filtration you must note whether the output of the pump is strong enough by touch and visually

6. If flow rate is good, check the suctions by hand and note the amount of suction you can feel. It should normally be very little and quite often hardly any at all.

7. If you feel a medium to strong suction, the most likely cause of poor filtration is a pipe obstruction - difficult to remedy - call for advice

8. Drain down the spa and remove the section of pipe work containing the obstruction. Replace the section of pipe work with a new pipework.

Flo Problem

1.Check water level is half way up the skimmer mouth and filters are clean and properly secured.

2. Check all gate valves are fully open.

3. Check pressure switch and re-calobrate to its correct setting. - see pressure switch in parts glossary

4. Function test pump 1 on/off, high speed/low speed and that it operateson raising the set temperature (If not go to No. 7)

5. Visually inspect the pumps impeller to see if it is moving freely.

6.Replace pump on test.

7. It is quite probable electric that the 1st stage capacitor has failed in the pumps electric housing. This will need replacing. (Go to 6)

High-limit trips erratically; trips at end of heat cycle.

1) If high-limit switch trips within a few minutes of heater activation, a water flow restriction may be the problem. Check your filter(s). If flow is normal with filter removed, then clean filter cartridge, or replace if more than 1 year old. If flow is still low, proceed to 2).

2) With the power to the spa disconnected, remove the suction end pipe of pump (wet end). Inspect inside for debris which has obstructed any area of the impeller; remove debris. Check for damaged impeller. If damaged, replace.

3) With power to the spa disconnected, check to verify heater element is not touching the sides of the heater manifold. If touching, carefully move element away from manifold with long screwdriver.

4) If all above check good, replace high-limit switch or test - see heating section

Note: High-limit tripping at the end of heating cycle is often a result of the residual heat from the element causing the water temperature at the sensor to rise for a few seconds. This will sometimes trip an aging high-limit switch. Replace high-limit. (We do not recommend attempting to adjust or recalibrate high-limit switches).

Burnt wires; melted insulation.

1) Burnt wires or melted insulation often indicates, and was likely caused by a loose connection. Remove bad section of wire and replace with new wire.

Note: After this type of problem has occurred, merely re-tightening the connections may not solve the problem. Since the damaged copper wire has oxidized, its internal resistance will now be higher, causing more heat.


Spa leaks.

1.   Make sure the Spa is full, operational and at a temperature of 30°c or higher.

2.   Switch on all pumps and blower to the highest setting to determine which joint the leak is coming from. You will need to see all sides of the spa. Suggest remove the centre panel for each side and the section of rock wall insulation.

3.   Pay great detail to the following:

a) Disconnect power to spa. Inspect the equipment area. If leak is under the pump, this indicates a possible pump seal failure. Replace seal if leak is indicated.
b) Check union fittings at spa pump and heater. These can even vibrate loose on a brand new spa during shipment, and should be hand tightened if necessary. If hand tightening is difficult, loosen pump mounting bolts, move components into alignment, then tighten unions and retighten pump mounting bolts.
c) Inspect heater, pressure switch and surrounding components. Replace any defective parts as indicated by leak(s).
d) Inspect valves. Repair or replace if leak is indicated. Knife style valves are bolted together and contain a gasket between the halves which can fail, particularly upon freezing or with prolonged poor water quality conditions.
e) Inspect all pipes, jets and connections for leakage. Repair or replace if indicated.control area to start with checking all pump and heater unions. Also check bleed valves and the light fitting. If a union or bleed valve is leaking,

4. Check for any evidence of water build up in a particular area of the base . This is normally a good indication of where the leak has occurred. A minor leak (not visual) will require the base to be wet vacuumed dry to monitor for wet spots.

5. Once you have found the leak it will fall into one of the following categories:

a. Flexi Leak
b. Rigid Leak
c. Jet Fitting Leak
d. Shell Leak
e. Silicone Leak

6.Basic plumbing skills will cover all categories listed apart from a Shell Leak in which case a detailed report should be made and the manufacturer consulted.

7 Once the leak has been repaired, fill and test the Spa. If you are in a situation where a Flexi or Silicone Leak has been repaired you will
need to allow the recommended cure time for the adhesive to set.

8. Tighten all unions hand tight as much as you can and then apply an extra 1/4 turn using either a large set of grips (be careful not to chew the
nut) or a boa constrictor type tool. Note heater unions will tighten anti-clockwise and a closer inspection of the gasket contained within maybe
required.

Note: One method for locating leaks is to use dye (dark food color) in the water. This method works best if the leak is substantial. Observe location of dye leakage, using flashlight if needed, and proceed with repair. Another method is to is to let the water drop (with spa not running) and then observe the water level of the spa when the level ceases to drop. If the water stops dropping at a jet for example, that jet is the likely leak source.

For faster leaks it may help to determine the type of leak: vessel leak (spa shell), suction-side leak (before pump) or pressure leak (after pump). Fill spa and mark the water level with grease pen or crayon, and allow the spa to run for 24 hours. Now mark the new water level to determine how much the water level has dropped. Refill to original mark, and keep system off for 24 hours. Again, note how far the water dropped. If the water dropped the same amount on both tests, this usually indicates a vessel leak (blisters and most surface cracks are usually only cosmetic, and not normally a cause for leaks). If the water dropped more with system running, this indicates a pressure leak. If the water dropped less with system running, this indicates a likely suction leak.

For a long term repair, it is better to find the defective component and repipe, we recommend not using fix a leak.

There is no water coming out of my jet(s)

• Check all the jets are open fully (turn anti-clockwise)

• Try removing the jet internal, blast the water through and check there are no blockages (continue to turn anti-clockwise)

• Clean the jets (a trick is white wine vinegar in a bucket over night will remove the build up)

To Determine if Fuse Replacement is Necessary.

To determine if fuse replacement is necessary, perform the following sequence of tests:

Test the System:

• Turn the power off.
• Be sure to replace the system power input fuse with the same type.
• Unplug the blower and all pumps.
• Restore the power and verify system operation.
• If the fuse blows, then re-check the internal system wires and connector for burns, cracks or cuts in insulation.
• If the fuse does not blow, turn the power off and plug in the pump.

Note: Be sure to test each device individually.

Test the Pump:

• Restore the power and activate the pump.
• If the fuse blows, there is a pump problem.
• If the fuse does not blow, turn off the power.

Test the Blower (if you have one):

• Plug in the blower.
• Power up the system and activate the blower.
• If the fuse blows, then there is a blower problem.
• If the fuse does not blow, the combined pump and blower amperage may be excessive. To verify this, first check with your spa manufacturer for amperage draw limits on each device.
• Since the blower should now be running, you can check the amperage draw with an ammeter by measuring around the blower wire and compare with manufacturer's specifications.

Test the Amperage Draw:

• Turn off the power, disconnect the blower, make sure the pump is plugged in, and restore power.
• Start the pump and switch to high speed (if available), this should draw the most current.
• Make sure all jets and valves are open.
• Check the amperage at the pump wire. Compare your reading with manufacturer specifications. (If the other plug-in devices exist, they should be tested in the same way.)
• If the amperage draw for each device is within manufacturer's specifications, the problem could be a nuisance spike in the pump, or water in the blower.

How do i properly start my system?

Before applying voltage to the System, it is very important that you understand the sequence of events that occur when power is applied so that the pumps can be primed efficiently and faults created by no water flow can be prevented.

Please review the following procedures and power-up events before applying voltage to the System:

1) Check the voltage at the main power panel to be sure that you have the correct voltage for the System being used. Also, be sure that the voltage is within + or -10%of the mean voltage. For 230 V it should be between 207 V and 253 V.

2. Test and reset the R.C.D. If it does not operate properly, do not apply voltage to the System until the problem has been corrected.

3. Fill the spa to its correct operating level, it is best to fill in the filter canister as this fill inside out rather than in the tub itself as this fill outside in, providing more propensity for flo errors and air locks. Be sure to open all valves in the plumbing system before filling to allow as much air as possible to escape from the plumbing and the heater during the filling process.

4. Vent air from the pump(s). Do this by loosening the union nuts on the discharge of all pumps. Allow a small amount of water and air to escape from the pump(s) and related plumbing. Retighten the union nuts.

5. Turn the power on at the main power panel. Depending on which top-side panel the System is configured for, the displays will go through specific sequences. During these sequences you will need to prime the pump(s) as described in the following:

The following will occur:

• Display will show a series of numbers immediately following Power-Up (typically but not all spas).
• Display will show "Pr" indicating that the System is in a pump priming mode. During this mode the heater is disabled to allow the priming process to be completed without the possibility of energizing the heater under low flow or no flow conditions. Nothing comes on automatically, but the pump (s) can be energized by pushing all Jet buttons.
This mode on balboa systems will automatically last for about 4 minutes or you can manually exit the priming mode after the pump (s) have primed. (Manually exiting the priming mode is described later in this text). Regardless of whether the priming mode is automatically terminated or you manually exit the priming mode, the system will automatically return to the normal heating and filtering mode at the end of the priming mode.

• Pump Priming. As soon as "Pr" is indicated on the top-side panel, push all jet buttons to start the pumps. On models with a combined jet button, push it until all pumps are on high speed. All pumps need to be running in the high speed mode to facilitate priming. If the pumps have not primed after 2 minutes, and water is not flowing from the jets in the spa, do not allow the pumps to continue to run. Turn the power off at the main power panel and repeat the process of venting the air from the pump (s). After venting air from the pump (s) a second time, turn the power back on at the main power panel. This will initiate a new pump priming mode. Sometimes momentarily turning the pump off and on will help it to prime. Do not do this more than 5 times.

Important:

A pump should not be allowed to run without priming for more than 2 minutes. Under NO circumstances should a pump be allowed to run without priming beyond the end of the 4 minute priming mode. Doing so may cause damage to the pump and cause the system to go into an overheat condition.

• After pump priming, push all jet buttons to turn off the pump(s).
• Next, manually exit the priming mode by pushing either the "Warm" or "Cool" button (the "Temp" button on smaller panels). Note that if you do not manually exit the priming mode as described above, the priming mode will be automatically terminated after 4 minutes. Be sure that the pump(s) have been primed by this time.
• After you have manually exited the priming mode or the system has automatically exited the priming mode, the top-side panel will momentarily display the set temperature and then dashes.
Note that the display is not showing the temperature yet. This is because the system requires approximately 2 minutes of water flowing through the heater to determine the water temperature.
• After 2 minutes of water flowing through the heater the temperature will be displayed. Push the "Warm" or "Temp" button to adjust the temperature to the desired setting. If the water temperature in the spa is less than the set temperature, the heat indicator will turn on signifying that the heater has been energized.
• When the System is in the "Standard" operational mode it will automatically heat the spa and maintain it at the set temperature. All user buttons will be functional.
After the System has been powered-up and the pumps have been primed, make a final voltage check at the System terminal block.

• Voltage Check
1. Activate the low speed of the pump.
2. Adjust the temperature to turn on the heater.
3. Activate any other equipment that does not turn off the heater.
4. Activate the light.
5. Check the voltage.
The voltage for 230V systems should be 207-253 between line and neutral.
Note:
If the voltage is not within tolerance while the System is operating as described above, turn off the power at the main power panel and correct the problem before continuing to operate the System.