Hot Tub Pump Troubleshooting

Please remember that water and electricity are a deadly combination and do not mix. Use any of the information contained herein AT YOUR OWN RISK. We will not be held liable for any injuries that may result from the troubleshooting advice or installation of any electrical components in your hot tub spa unit.

 

Most Common Questions

Different Types of faults?
The pump does not run at all?
No water flow; pump motor humming?
No low-speed pump; no Ozonator function?
The pump is leaking?
How do I remove my pump?
How do install or open my wet end?
How do I replace the capacitor?
How do I rewire my pump?
Hot Tub Pump Installation & Wet End Rotation

Different Types of Faults

• One is a mechanical seal, which seals the water in the wet end of the pump.
• The other is the front faceplate of the pump, which seals the housing containing the impeller IF EITHER OF THESE IS LEAKING WATER, they need to be replaced

Pump electrical failure - Is usually 1 of 2 things-

• The pump is going to earth and tripping electrics.
• The capacitor, which starts the pump, has failed.

Pump mechanical failure -

• Bent shaft - grinding gets faster as with pump or repetitive sound.
• Dry bearing - more evident on low speed.
• Pressing against pipework. Making unusual vibrating noises.
• A Squeak when start/stop - Noise is not uncommon as the impeller will turn back on itself slightly with the backflow of water onto the loaded spring.

The hot tub pump doesn't work?

Before going any further check that the pump is plugged into your control box which is situated behind the access panel on your hot tub cabinet.

Make sure the water level is at the correct height and there is no obstruction in the filter canister or dirty filters. You could try taking the filter cartridges right out and then trying the pump. If that works make sure you clean and or replace cartridges as soon as possible.

Turn the pump on and off every 5 seconds, because often the surge of the pump starting primes the pump. If you have recently emptied and or just fill it up, it will most probably be a priming issue and may require you to bleed the air out of the system. Correct this problem by closing the gate valve on the suction (intake) side of the pump (If you have one) and then loosen the front pump union just enough to allow the trapped air to escape from inside. Retighten the union, open the valve, and restart the system

It is possible however that your pump relay/circuit/capacitor or controller system is stopping your pump from coming on and will still not start regardless and it could also be that the mechanical seal has gone and water has penetrated down the shaft and into the bearings and has seized your motor.

Worn bearings sometimes cause a whining noise. If so, replace the pump.

Water leakage around the pump shaft. This often indicates a failure of the pump seals. Typically a water puddle will be visible below the pump when these seals have deteriorated. Replace seals or wet end.

Is the pump humming or vibrating when you turn on your jets? If not then ensure you are getting an electrical supply and if you can't hear or feel anything from your pump, you may have an electrical problem. You will then need to call a professional.

No water flow; pump motor humming:

1. With the power to the spa disconnected, inspect the wet end for impeller blockage or jam.
2. Check for frozen shaft by rotating with fingers or pliers. The shaft should spin freely.
3. Starting capacitors may be defective. Replace capacitor.

Note: Other problems include burnt windings or bad centrifugal switches. If the shaft is hard to turn, bearings may be worn out. Replace pump assembly or motor in either case. Use extreme caution when testing pumps. Never touch a pump when power is applied.

No low-speed pump:

1. Check capacitors in the pump housing, if misshapen or leaking or look yellow replace
2. Select high speed to see if that works. If not, check incoming power for the correct potential. Do not continue until power checks correctly. If that checks good, check for proper voltage reaching the 2-speed pump and/or leaving the control via the pump receptacle If voltage is good, replace the pump motor (be sure to check at both input and output locations, as cords can fail also). Remember: you can not check for a low-speed problem while high speed is selected; both speeds cannot be on at the same time. If high speed will not engage either, and supply power is correct, you may have internal wiring or circuit board problem. If not, troubleshoot based on the new symptom.

NOTE: Ozonator works on a low-speed pump circuit. If there is no power at a low speed, Ozonator will not function. See also: No Ozone.

The pump is leaking? (how to replace a pump seal)

1. If the water level is dropping slowly, ensure the water level is topped up to determine which pump is leaking. At this point, you must also be sure which area of the pump is leaking. If it is the mechanical seal, i.e. the spindle in the centre of the pump, please go to sections 2,3,4 and 12. If it is the front faceplate that is leaking - replace
2. If the filter pump is leaking, turn the power to the spa off to close the two slide gate valves. One is leading from the filter housing into the front end of pump 1 (the filter pump) and the other is located on one side of the control box.
3. Undo the pump unions, unplug the pump from the control box and remove the earth wire. Unscrew the pump from the supporting plywood and remove it fully from the spa.
4. Gently remove the bolts securing the pump face in place and remove the front faceplate.
5. When you have removed the front faceplate you will need to inspect the O-ring. To do this, place a flat-headed screwdriver in the groove behind the O-ring and lift it out. Take the new O-ring and fit the faceplate.
6. On re-fixing the front faceplate you will need to lubricate the new 0-ring and also the internal wall of the pump housing.
7. If you set the pump up onto its end with the head facing upwards you will find it easier to replace the front faceplate. Sit the faceplate onto the pump and push down evenly until flush.
8. Replace the bolts. NOTE THAT WHEN REPLACING BOLTS USE A LOW TORQUE SETTING ON THE SCREWDRIVER. OVERTIGHTENING COULD CAUSE DISTORTION OF PUMP HOUSING.
9. Re-fit pump and connect unions. Tighten the union's hand tight, and take a large set of grips or something similar to apply another quarter turn.
10. Open the gate valves, and release the clamped pipe and bleed pumps. Fill the spa and test for leaks
11. Replace the pump as a complete unit using steps 10 and 11.

Wet End Information

How do I install a pump / wet end - click here

Changing a Capacitor

1. Turn off power to the spa.
2. Isolate the control box and filter pump area by closing the 2 gate valves
3. Remove the pump and then remove the electrical housing cover on the top of the pump.
4. Identify the faulty capacitor and replace it. You will typically need an 8mm socket screwdriver and a very small flat-headed screwdriver.
5. With the new pump housing sealed and all electrics covered, turn the spa back on to dry, test the pump.
6. Turn the power to the spa off, return the pump to the spa and open all gate valves.
7. Turn the power to the spa on, prime the pump and function test.

How do I rewire my pump?

When considering rewiring an existing or a new pump, it is often difficult to do due to the variety of wire colours available in the UK, we have therefore compiled a list of the colours and what they are - always consult a professional or email us for any advice.

UK & USA Conversion tables:

3 Core:

4 Core:

**Please note do not run the pump with the low and high speed the wrong way around for more than 20-30 seconds as this will damage the pump and invalidate your warranty.