Hot Tub Error Codes

Balboa Spa Side Error Codes
Gecko Spa Side Error Codes
Jacuzzi Whirlpool Spa Side Error Codes
Spa Quip Spa Side Error Codes
Sundance Spa Side Error Codes
Hydro-Quip Spa Side Error Codes

Click for an understanding of what the codes fundamentally mean:

Flashing Light Spa Side Error Codes
FLO, FLC, FL, FL1, PS, Blinking Lights
OH, OHH, OHS, OHt, HL, HiLi, Sn2, Sn3, tS, Ht, Blinking Lights
SN, Sn1, Sn2 Sn3, HL, E1, E3, Prh, HtS, Blinking Lights
The Panel Displays Sn,SnS:
The Panel Displays Cd, CLd:
The Panel Displays IC , iCE:
The Panel Displays dr, dry:

Balboa Spa Side Error Codes

Balboa Service Documents - if you have a pressure switch then your Non M7 - if you have 2 x sensors on either side of the heater then you have M7 - great documents to see a complete overview of Balboa systems

Balboa_Non_m7_guide.pdf
Balboa_M7_guide.pdf

Gecko Spa Side Error Codes

• FLO : Pressure switch failure, switch open
• FLC : Pressure switch failure, switch closed
• Prr : Temp sensor failure
• Prh : Hi-limit sensor failure
• HL : Sensor measuring 119 degrees
• FrE : Possible freeze condition detected

Jacuzzi Whirlpool Spa Side Error Codes

• OH = Overheat Protection (Heater is deactivated, pumps low speed is activated).
• • COOL = Spa water is more than 20° F cooler than the temperature set point.
• • FLO = Flow Switch (heater is deactivated. Pump may also be deactivated).
• Hold = Panel sensors have been pressed too many times in a short period of time.
• HOT = Circuit Board temperature has exceeded acceptable limit.
• ICE = Freeze protection. No action is necessary.
• ICE2 = Freeze protection. No action is necessary.
• PnL = Communication between the panel and circuit board is faulty.
• ---- = "Watchdog" (spa is deactivated) A problem has been detected.
• Sn1 = Open sensor (heater is deactivated) or Shorted sensor (spa is deactivated).
• Sn3 = Open or shorted sensor ( heater disabled).
• FLO2 = Closed or shorted flow switch on system startup

Spa Quip Spa Side Error Codes

• SpaQuip Davey Troubleshooting
• SpaQuip Davey error codes explained
• SpaQuip Davey resets for controllers
• err 1 (H20): Prime Failed
• err 3 : Stuck Button - Probable cause is faulty topside control
• err 4 : No Water Sensor
• err 5 : Overtemperature
• err 6 : Thermal Cut Out Tripped - This error means that the temperature sensor inside the heater has detected temperatures that could damage the heater; as a result, the heater will not switch on until it has cooled to below 38°c and the system has been reset (turn off and on at the mains). Possible causes are an airlock in the system, lack of flow through the heater (could be caused by dirty filters, closed gate vales, or a faulty circ pump), a faulty sensor or a faulty PCB
• Received from Monarch regarding err 6 -
  • Check if the valves and the jets are ok and if the filter is clean.
  • Is the pump working correctly?
  • Then you have to check if the flow of water is sufficient in the heater and to remove the air by unscrewing it.
  • Then make a reset
•  
• err 7 : Stuck Relay
• err 8 : No Temperature Data
• 01 : Stuck Button
• 02 : No Controller Data
• 03 : Temperature Sensor
• 04 : Water Sensor
• 05 : Spa Over Temperature
• 06 : Heater Thermal Cut Out
• 07 : Stuck Heater Relay
• 09 : Water Prime Failed

Sundance Spa Side Error Codes

• ILOC : Interlock failure - possible pump or ozone spike
• FLO : Pressure switch malfunction
• Hold : Panel buttons pressed too many times to quickly
• HOT : PCB temperature above the acceptable limit - air blower on
• ICE : Potential freeze condition
• Pnl : Communication between PCB and panel interrupted
• Sn1 : Hi-limit sensor failure
• Sn3 : Temp sensor failure

Hydro-Quip Spa Side Error Codes

• C = Celsius
• CL = Current Time of Day
• ECdu = Economy Mode Duration
• Econ = Economy Mode Turn On
• F = Fahrenheit
• Fldu = Filter Cycle Duration
• Flon = Filter Cycle Turn On
• FLC = Pressure Switch Alarm
• FLO = Pressure Switch Alarm
• FrEE = Freeze Protection Alarm
• HL = High Temperature Alarm
• Loc = Panel / Keypad Locked
• PrH = Temperature Sensors Alarm
• Prr = Temperature Sensors Alarm
• Tu = Temperature Set Celsius
• Tu = Temperature Set Fahrenheit

Flashing Light Spa Side Error Codes

• 1 flash - 3-second gap High Limit fault
• 2 flashes - 3-second gap Pressure/Flow switch short circuit
• 3 flashes - 3-second gap Pressure/Flow switch open circuit
• 4 flashes - 3-second gap Open circuit Sensor(s)
• Flash - 1 second on, 1 second off Same as OH
• Flash - briefly OFF once per second Same as Sn1 or Sn3
• Flash - briefly ON once per second Same as FLC
• Blinking Power Indicator Light - Hydromate High Limit tripped or, sensor fault
• 1 flash per second - onga 4352, 53, 95, etc Pressure switch open circuit - could also be motor or motor thermal overload
• 3 flashes per second - onga 4352, 53, 95, etc Electronic fault - sensor (most common cause) or PCB
• Green flashes - Spaquip Pulsar/2095 series Water sensor fault - lack of water
• Red/Green alternate flashes Temperature sensor fault, open circuit, or high limit tripped - push Reset Rod

What the codes actually mean!

FLO, FLC, FL, FL1, PS, Blinking Lights

Pressure/Flow Switch Failure:

These codes are related to flow issues or the pressure switch/flow switch and are by far the most common error codes. These error codes are caused by a variety of reasons. The fundamental reason is water flow through the spa control system, if the water is not flowing at a rate to satisfy the pressure switch, it will result in one of the error codes above.

Rule number 1 is to always (not with a pressurized filter canister) fill the hot tub after a drain down by placing the hose pipe in the filter housing (remove filter) this fills the hot tub from inside to outside, rather than placing the hose pipe in the tub, (this fills outside to inside) and is the primary cause of FLO errors.

If however, you have the fault then the first thing to do is shut the spa down, do not empty, remove the filter and make sure all the jets are open (as best you can). Then re-start the hot tub, if the error code goes away, the problem was either a dirty filter (clean or replace) or too many jets were closed off.

To check for activation: with power off, disconnect the leads going to the pressure switch. Make sure they aren't touching anything. Power up and turn on the low pump. With your meter on ohms, check across the poles of the switch. You should have continuity. If not and you know the flow is not the issue, most pressure switches have an adjusting collar that will vary the pressure it takes to activate it. Counterclockwise turns to decrease the pressure required. Turn the power off before attempting any adjustment! Make all adjustments slowly and try again. WARNING, if you go too far the pressure switch may activate with the pump off. This is the last thing you want to happen!!! Always check to be sure that the heater goes off when the pump does! If you are certain flow is present, but your pressure switch isn't activating you may want to remove it and be sure no debris is clogging it up. Pressure switches are in contact with the water, when you remove them water will come out (or should).

NOTE: Most spas are equipped with pressure switches and can be found threaded into the stainless steel heater manifold. Flow switches are plumbed in line with the plumbing. You can also check the pressure switch or flow switch with an Ohm meter. When the water is not flowing it should be OPEN, not CLOSED, if it is closed replace it. In most cases, a replacement pressure/flow switch for this code is worthwhile as even if it does not solve the problem you will have removed the most common fault from your diagnosis and have a highly unpredictable part in stock for the future.

Other issues pertaining to these error codes are debris wrapped around the pump impeller, click here to see how to remove and check (I would do this as a last-ditch attempt to solve the problem), or one of the gate valves is not opening up all the way. The most common valve; the tee handle valve (also known as a gate or slice valve), will show that the handle is up, but in many cases, the gate is still half closed, make sure that it is open all the way, you may need to dismantle the fittings to look inside (once again a big job, last on your list)

OH, OHH, OHS, OHt, HL, HiLi, Sn2, Sn3, tS, Ht, Blinking Lights

The error codes above are related to a temperature sensor failure, overheat problems or a flow problem. If your spa is in fact overheating then it is caused by one of two things, either the temperature sensor is defective or the relays on the circuit board that operate the heater are stuck shut causing an overheat issue, in this case, you would need to replace the circuit board.

If your spa is not overheating and you are getting the above error codes then a couple of things need to be investigated. Depending on where the temp sensor is mounted; usually in the wall of the spa in a sensor mount, you could have a flow issue. Shut the spa power off, remove the filter and make sure all the jets are open. Then power the system back up, if the error code goes away, the problem was either a dirty filter (clean or replace) or too many jets were closed off. In most cases overheat issues are related to the relays on the circuit board, or the temp sensor has failed and will need to be replaced. A replacement temp sensor for this code is worthwhile as even if it does not solve the problem you will have removed the most common fault from your diagnosis and have a highly unpredictable part in stock for the future.

FINAL NOTE: Temperature sensors should be mounted in a sensor mount in the wall of the spa and not behind the shield on the heater manifold with the hi-limit sensor. The temp sensor is the larger of the two silver bullets.

The Panel Displays HH, OOH:

At least one of the sensors has detected water temperatures of 48.0°C inside the heater.

or

The Panel Displays OH, OHS:

One of the sensors has detected the temperature of the water coming into the heater to be 43.5°C, and so the water in the spa is likely to be that hot.

These indicate that the spa has shut down due to an overheat situation:

Note: Overheating may occur if the low-speed pump is set to operate for extended periods of time, or if the incorrect pump is installed. In rare cases (usually warmer climates), the circulation pump may also cause overheating.

The following is a list of the most probable causes of this message. Inspect these first:

• Check slice or ball valves. Make sure that they are open.
• Make sure the correct pump is installed.
• Clean the filter/skimmer if there is any blockage.
• Check heater element alignment.
• Check for debris on the heater element.
• In extremely hot weather, check for proper cabinet ventilation.
• Make sure the temperature sensor is fully inserted into the sensor fitting on the heater.
• Check for excessive filter duration. Note: A common programming mistake is overlapping filter times that may cause the spa to filter continuously.
• Check the water level.
• Check the water temperature with an accurate temperature thermometer. Remove the spa cover and allow the water to cool to below 42.0° C. Adding cool water may be necessary. Touch any button to reset the system. If the water is still hotter than the set temperature, press the blower button (if applicable) to cool the spa.

If the Problem Recurs, Test the Sensor Set.

The Panel Displays: HL, HFL

This indicates that a substantial difference in temperature between sensors has been detected during heating.

This could indicate a flow problem. Check the water level in the spa. Refill, if necessary. If the water level is okay, make sure the pumps have been primed.

On the fifth occurrence of the above message the panel will display -LF

This indicates a persistent flow problem

The heater is shut down while all other spa functions continue to run normally. Power on the spa must be cycled before the heater will function again.

SN, Sn1, Sn2 Sn3, HL, E1, E3, Prh, HtS, Blinking Lights

Again these can be caused by a flow issue. The first thing to do is shut the spa down, remove the filter and make sure all the jets are open. Then power the system back up, if the error code goes away, the problem was either a dirty filter (clean or replace) or too many jets were closed off.

Next, put your hand on the stainless steel heater manifold, it should NOT be hot, it should only be at the same temperature the water in the spa is. If it is hot you have a flow issue, or if it stays hot after the pump is shut off either the pressure switch has stuck close (see FLO error codes above) or the relays on the board have stuck shut sending continuous power to the heater. If all these tests are checked and they did not solve the error code issues, then it is possible you have a defective hi-limit sensor. FINAL NOTE: The Hi-Limit Sensor is located behind a shield on the stainless heater manifold and is the smaller of the two silver bullets.

Other issues that can cause these error codes are debris wrapped around the pump impeller or one of the valves is not open up all the way. The most common valve; the tee handle valve, will show that the handle is up, but in many cases, the gate is still half closed, make sure that it is open all the way, you may need to dismantle the fittings to look inside. (do this as a last-ditch attempt or call the professional in)

The Panel Displays Sn, SnS:

This indicates that the sensors are out of balance.

If alternating with temperature, it may just be a temporary condition. If flashing by itself, the spa is shut down.

The Panel Displays Cd, CLd:

This indicates that a sensor detects a possible freeze condition. This is a normal spa function; no further action is necessary. When either sensor reads below 4.5° C, the system provides freeze protection. It automatically activates the pump (and the heater if necessary) to circulate the water and warm the plumbing. The equipment stays on until the sensors detect that the spa temperature has risen to within 8.0°C of the set temperature. The other pumps and the blower will purge for 30 seconds to 2 minutes at the end of the freeze condition. If pump 1 was turned on due to this reason alone, this message will appear for up to two minutes right after very cold water is detected.

Note: Internal freeze protection only functions when there is proper power running to the spa, and the control system is operational.

The Panel Displays IC, iCE:

This indicates that the auxiliary sensor detects a possible freeze condition. This is a normal spa function; no further action is necessary.
When the auxiliary sensor reads around 40F- (actual temperature depends on the specific auxiliary sensor used), the system provides freeze protection. It automatically activates all of the pumps and the blower to circulate water and warm the plumbing.

Note This auxiliary freeze protection functions at all times, even when another fault condition has occurred and has otherwise shut the spa down.

The Panel Displays dr, dry:

This indicates that there is not enough water in the heater. This could indicate poor flow or air bubbles in the heater.