Hot Tub Main Troubleshooting Issues

Please remember that water and electricity are a deadly combination and do not mix. Use any of the information contained herein AT YOUR OWN RISK. We will not be held liable for any injuries that may result from the troubleshooting advice or installation of any electrical components in your hot tub spa unit.

 

Overview

Safety is key when servicing any spa. Remember, safety comes first for you. Please take all necessary precautions before attempting any repairs. Wiring checks are the first step to ensure safety and proper function before beginning service on a unit.

When an unexpected issue arises, you have to determine the best course of action. Therefore you have to identify the fault....so firstly we will highlight the most common faults

The most common are:

1. Clogged Filter

If water flow is poor and your jets don’t seem to be working as well as they should, you may have a clogged filter. When your filter becomes full of dirt and residue, water cannot flow through it, causing your spa to shut down. Preventative maintenance by regularly cleaning your filters is important for keeping your hot tub in working order. It’s also important to remember that when a filter becomes dirty, it will not remove contaminants from the water, which can lead to damage to the hot tub pump.

2. Air Lock

An airlock can occur when you drain your hot tub, clean it and refill it with water, as air can become trapped inside it while empty. You’ll notice an airlock right away when you turn on the jets and see that no water is flowing through them.

To get rid of the airlock, open all of the jets completely, letting them run on high for 10-15 seconds, repeating as necessary until you see air bubbles from the jets. Then, leave them running until all the air has been released. Alternatively, you can slowly loosen the nut that connects the spa plumbing to the motor/heater, which allows air to be released. Once the water begins to leak out, and retighten, you have now gotten all the air out of the pump.

3. Tripped RCD

The RCD device automatically turns off (trips) when it detects an electrical fault that could potentially cause electrocution. This could be due to a number of factors, such as a heater, pump, Ozonator or blower. To determine what is causing the issue, unplug each component separately and turn on the RCD.

If the RCD does not turn on after unplugging one of the components, you have found the problem and can replace/fix the piece that is causing the issue. If the RCD still does not turn on after unplugging each component, you likely have an issue with the heater element.

See here how to do this process in full

Click to identify major symptoms from the list below:

Once you have a basic idea of the problem, below you will find the major issues - click yours for an in-depth look

RCD Tripping / Intermittent Tripping

Heater Issues

Topside Control Issues

Pump Issues

PCB Issues

Jets Issues

Blower Issues

Light Issues

Ozone Issues

Low water flow Issues:

Poor or little filtration Issues:

Flo Problem Issues:

High-limit trips erratically; trips at end of heat cycle:

Burnt wires; melted insulation:

There is no water coming out of my jet(s):

Spa leaks:

To Determine if Fuse Replacement is Necessary:

Useful info - Pack Type

75% of the hot tub packs (the brains of your hot tub) in the worldwide market are from Balboa so if you have a Balboa system this may be of help to you

Blower issues:

No Blower:

1. Check the vary-boost controller has been diverted to the air track fully.
2. Check the blower union has been connected
3. Check for power at the blower receptacle with the blower selected to be on, and the blower cord unplugged. If there is an internal wiring problem or other symptoms that have not been discovered. If there are no other issues you have internal wiring or circuit board problem. If symptoms change, troubleshoot based on new indications.
4. If power is present at the blower receptacle, inspect the blower cord for damage and replace it if necessary. If the cord checks good, replace the blower assembly or blower motor.

Continuous blower:

Check for voltage at blower air switch with blower selected both on and off. If the output voltage does not change when switched, disconnect the output wire. If voltage is still present at the output terminal, replace the board. If voltage is not present at the output terminal but is present on the wire that was removed, the output wiring is shorted.

Light Issues:

Before doing the below check the fundamentals, and check the bulb is in the bulb holder correctly.

If it is:

1. Check for 12vac at light pigtail. If the 12vac tests correctly, replace the bulb.
2. If there is no voltage, go to the output of light. If this checks good, replace the light transformer.
3. If there is no output from the light, check the input voltage.
4. If the input to the light is incorrect, check the light fuse. Replace as necessary. If the fuse blows again, isolate the light transformer from the pump air switch by disconnecting the output wire. If this keeps the fuse from blowing, reconnect and then isolate transformer output by disconnecting either output wire. If the fuse blows, replace the transformer. If the fuse remains good, inspect and replace the light harness.
5. If the fuse checks good but there is still no power to light, either there is an internal wiring issue or there are other symptoms that have not been discovered. Operate unit completely and troubleshoot based on new findings. If the unit checks good in all other functions, you have internal wiring or circuit board malfunction.

Ozone Issues:

Ozone's last about 18 months

1. Ozone will go to earth, once activated most commonly caused by water entering ozone electrics. No water should pass through the ozone.
2. The ozone fails to illuminate when the spa is on its filter cycle. The UV lamp has failed, Ozonator has become useless - replace Ozonator.
3. Ozone only operates with the low-speed pump. If the low-speed pump operates correctly, check for power at the ozone receptacle. If good, inspect the cord for damage and replace it as necessary. If the cord checks good, replace the Ozonator. If low speed also does not operate, correct this first. Check the low-speed capacitor.
4. If there is no output from the ozone receptacle with low speed energized, then there is internal wiring or circuit board problem.

Ozonators last 12-18 months typically, we recommend whenever you buy new ozone you replace the tubing and the check valve.

Here's a video on how to diagnose if your check valve is ok and how to change it.

Low water flow Issues:

1. Ensure the spa is filled to the correct water level. Bring up to recommended level if necessary.
2. Check filters are clean and secured incorrectly, If the flow is normal with the filter removed, then clean the filter cartridge, or replace it if more than 1 year old. If the flow is still low, proceed to 3).
3. Check all gate valves are fully open.
4. Check all jets are fully open and free-flowing, Check for obstructed or misadjusted jets.
5. Check the pump is kicking in when it is supposed to and a good flow is present.
6. Inspect the impeller of the pump for any obstructions or debris. Also, check the rear end to ensure the impeller can turn freely. Plug the pump in dry to monitor its movement.
7. Replace pump and re-test.

Poor or little filtration Issues:

This can be down to a build-up of scale in the jets - remove the jets you can, and see if flow increases - if it does clean the jets

1. Make sure the water level is at the correct level.
2. Check the filters to ensure they are clean. Check the individual segments for the build-up of grime and debris
3. Check to see if water is travelling down the filter and see how strong the flow of water is by tearing up some small pieces of paper and then flaking them into the water to watch their movement.
4. Remove the paper from the spa. Remove the filters from the housing, and check (visually) to see if a vortex is apparent and how strong it is. (Physically) put your hand over the holes in the bottom to feel for suction.
5. If you have found there to be little or poor filtration you must note whether the output of the pump is strong enough by touch and visually
6. If the flow rate is good, check the suctions by hand and note the amount of suction you can feel. It should normally be very little and quite often hardly any at all.
7. If you feel a medium to strong suction, the most likely cause of poor filtration is a pipe obstruction - difficult to remedy - email for advice
8. Drain down the spa and remove the section of pipework containing the obstruction. Replace the section of pipework with new pipework.

Flo Problem Issues:

1. Check water level is halfway up the skimmer mouth and filters are clean and properly secured.
2. Check all gate valves are fully open.
3. Check the pressure switch and re-calibrate to its correct setting. 
4. Function test pump 1 on/off, high speed/low speed and that it operates on raising the set temperature (If not go to No. 7)
5. Visually inspect the pump's impeller to see if it is moving freely.
6. Replace the pump on the test.
7. It is quite probable electric that the 1st stage capacitor has failed in the pump electric housing. This will need replacing. (Go to 6)

High-limit trips erratically; trips at end of heat cycle:

1. If high-limit switch trips within a few minutes of heater activation, a water flow restriction may be the problem. Check your filter(s). If the flow is normal with the filter removed, then clean the filter cartridge, or replace it if more than 1 year old. If the flow is still low, proceed to 2).
2. With the power to the spa disconnected, remove the suction end pipe of the pump (wet end). Inspect inside for debris that has obstructed any area of the impeller; remove debris. Check for the damaged impeller. If damaged, replace.
3. With the power to the spa disconnected, check to verify the heater element is not touching the sides of the heater manifold. If touching, carefully move the element away from the manifold with a long screwdriver.
4. If all the above checks are good, replace the high-limit switch or test - see the heating section

Note: High-limit tripping at the end of the heating cycle is often a result of the residual heat from the element causing the water temperature at the sensor to rise for a few seconds. This will sometimes trip an ageing high-limit switch. Replace high-limit. (We do not recommend attempting to adjust or recalibrate high-limit switches).

Burnt wires; melted insulation:

1. Burnt wires or melted insulation often indicate and was likely caused by a loose connection. Remove the bad section of the wire and replace it with a new wire.

Note: After this type of problem has occurred, merely re-tightening the connections may not solve the problem. Since the damaged copper wire has oxidized, its internal resistance will now be higher, causing more heat.

Spa leaks:

1. Make sure the Spa is full, operational and at a temperature of 30°c or higher.
2. Switch on all pumps and blower to the highest setting to determine which joint the leak is coming from. You will need to see all sides of the spa. Suggest removing the centre panel for each side and the section of rock wall insulation.
3. Pay great detail to the following:
   1. Disconnect power to the spa. Inspect the equipment area. If the leak is under the pump, this indicates a possible pump seal failure. Replace the seal if the leak is indicated.
   2. Check union fittings at spa pump and heater. These can even vibrate loose on a brand new spa during shipment and should be hand tightened if necessary. If hand tightening is difficult, loosen pump mounting bolts, move components into alignment, then tighten unions and retighten pump mounting bolts.
   3. Inspect heater, pressure switch and surrounding components. Replace any defective parts as indicated by the leak(s).
   4. Inspect valves. Repair or replace if the leak is indicated. Knife-style valves are bolted together and contain a gasket between the halves which can fail, particularly upon freezing or with prolonged poor water quality conditions.
   5. Inspect all pipes, jets and connections for leakage. Repair or replace if indicated. Control area to start with checking all pump and heater unions. Also, check the bleed valves and the light fitting. If a union or bleed valve is leaking.
4. Check for any evidence of water buildup in a particular area of the base. This is normally a good indication of where the leak has occurred. A minor leak (not visual) will require the base to be wet and vacuumed dry to monitor for wet spots.
5. Once you have found the leak it will fall into one of the following categories:
   1. Flexi Leak
   2. Rigid Leak
   3. Jet Fitting Leak
   4. Shell Leak
   5. Silicone Leak
6. Basic plumbing skills will cover all categories listed apart from a Shell Leak in which case a detailed report should be made and the manufacturer consulted.
7. Once the leak has been repaired, fill and test the Spa. If you are in a situation where a Flexi or Silicone Leak has been repaired you will need to allow the recommended cure time for the adhesive to set.
8. Tighten all unions hand tight as much as you can and then apply an extra 1/4 turn using either a large set of grips (be careful not to chew the nut) or a boa constrictor type tool. Note heater unions will tighten anti-clockwise and a closer inspection of the gasket contained within may be required.

Note: One method for locating leaks is to use dye (dark food colour) in the water. This method works best if the leak is substantial. Observe the location of dye leakage, use a flashlight if needed, and proceed with the repair. Another method is to let the water drop (with the spa not running) and then observe the water level of the spa when the level ceases to drop. If the water stops dropping at a jet, for example, that jet is the likely leak source.

For faster leaks, it may help to determine the type of leak: vessel leak (spa shell), suction-side leak (before the pump) or pressure leak (after the pump). Fill the spa and mark the water level with a grease pen or crayon, and allow the spa to run for 24 hours. Now mark the new water level to determine how much the water level has dropped. Refill to the original mark, and keep the system off for 24 hours. Again, note how far the water dropped. If the water dropped the same amount on both tests, this usually indicates a vessel leak (blisters and most surface cracks are usually only cosmetic, and not normally a cause for leaks). If the water dropped more with the system running, this indicates a pressure leak. If the water dropped less with the system running, this indicates a likely suction leak.

For a long-term repair, it is better to find the defective component and repipe, we recommend not using fix a leak.

There is no water coming out of my jet(s):

1. Check all the jets are open fully (turn anti-clockwise)
2. Try removing the jet internal, blast the water through and check there are no blockages (continue to turn anti-clockwise)
3. Clean the jets (a trick is white wine vinegar in a bucket overnight will remove the build-up)

To Determine if Fuse Replacement is Necessary:

To determine if fuse replacement is necessary, perform the following sequence of tests:

Test the System:

1. Turn the power off.
2. Be sure to replace the system power input fuse with the same type.
3. Unplug the blower and all pumps.
4. Restore the power and verify system operation. If the fuse blows, then re-check the internal system wires and connector for burns, cracks or cuts in insulation.
5. If the fuse does not blow, turn the power off and plug in the pump.

Note: Be sure to test each device individually.

Test the Pump:

1. Restore the power and activate the pump.
2. If the fuse blows, there is a pump problem.
3. If the fuse does not blow, turn off the power.

Test the Blower (if you have one):

1. Plugin the blower.
2. Power up the system and activate the blower.
3. If the fuse blows, then there is a blower problem.
4. If the fuse does not blow, the combined pump and blower amperage may be excessive. To verify this, first, check with your spa manufacturer for amperage draw limits on each device.
5. Since the blower should now be running, you can check the amperage draw with an ammeter by measuring around the blower wire and compare with the manufacturer's specifications.

Test the Amperage Draw:

Turn off the power, disconnect the blower, make sure the pump is plugged in, and restore power.
Start the pump and switch to high speed (if available), this should draw the most current.
Make sure all jets and valves are open.
Check the amperage at the pump wire. Compare your reading with manufacturer specifications. (If the other plug-in devices exist, they should be tested in the same way.)
If the amperage draw for each device is within the manufacturer's specifications, the problem could be a nuisance spike in the pump or water in the blower.

How do I properly start my system?

Before applying a voltage to the System, you must understand the sequence of events that occur when power is applied so that the pumps can be primed efficiently and faults created by no water flow can be prevented.

Please review the following procedures and power-up events before applying a voltage to the System:

1. Check the voltage at the main power panel to be sure that you have the correct voltage for the System being used. Also, be sure that the voltage is within + or -10% of the mean voltage. For 230 V it should be between 207 V and 253 V.
2. Test and reset the R.C.D. If it does not operate properly, do not apply voltage to the System until the problem has been corrected.
3. Fill the spa to its correct operating level, it is best to fill in the filter canister as this fill inside out rather than in the tub itself as this fill outside in, providing more propensity for flo errors and airlocks. Be sure to open all valves in the plumbing system before filling to allow as much air as possible to escape from the plumbing and the heater during the filling process.
4. Vent air from the pump(s). Do this by loosening the union nuts on the discharge of all pumps. Allow a small amount of water and air to escape from the pump(s) and related plumbing. Retighten the union nuts.
5. Turn the power on at the main power panel. Depending on which top-side panel the System is configured for, the displays will go through specific sequences. During these sequences, you will need to prime the pump(s) as described in the following:

The following will occur:

1. The display will show a series of numbers immediately following Power-Up (typically but not all spas).
2. The display will show "Pr" indicating that the System is in pump-priming mode. During this mode, the heater is disabled to allow the priming process to be completed without the possibility of energizing the heater under low-flow or no-flow conditions. Nothing comes on automatically, but the pump (s) can be energized by pushing all Jet buttons.
3. This mode on Balboa systems will automatically last for about 4 minutes or you can manually exit the priming mode after the pump (s) have primed. (Manually exiting the priming mode is described later in this text). Regardless of whether the priming mode is automatically terminated or you manually exit the priming mode, the system will automatically return to the normal heating and filtering mode at the end of the priming mode.

Pump Priming:

1. As soon as "Pr" is indicated on the top-side panel, push all jet buttons to start the pumps. On models with a combined jet button, push it until all pumps are on high speed. All pumps need to be running in high-speed mode to facilitate priming. If the pumps have not been primed after 2 minutes, and water is not flowing from the jets in the spa, do not allow the pumps to continue to run. Turn the power off at the main power panel and repeat the process of venting the air from the pump (s). After venting air from the pump (s) a second time, turn the power back on at the main power panel. This will initiate a new pump-priming mode. Sometimes momentarily turning the pump off and on will help it to prime. Do not do this more than 5 times.

Important:

A pump should not be allowed to run without priming for more than 2 minutes. Under NO circumstances should a pump be allowed to run without priming beyond the end of the 4-minute priming mode. Doing so may cause damage to the pump and cause the system to go into an overheat condition.

After pump-priming, push all jet buttons to turn off the pump(s).
Next, manually exit the priming mode by pushing either the "Warm" or "Cool" button (the "Temp" button on smaller panels). Note that if you do not manually exit the priming mode as described above, the priming mode will be automatically terminated after 4 minutes. Be sure that the pump(s) have been primed by this time.
After you have manually exited the priming mode or the system has automatically exited the priming mode, the top-side panel will momentarily display the set temperature and then dashes.
Note that the display is not showing the temperature yet. This is because the system requires approximately 2 minutes of water flowing through the heater to determine the water temperature.
After 2 minutes of water flowing through the heater, the temperature will be displayed. Push the "Warm" or "Temp" button to adjust the temperature to the desired setting. If the water temperature in the spa is less than the set temperature, the heat indicator will turn on signifying that the heater has been energized.
When the System is in the "Standard" operational mode it will automatically heat the spa and maintain it at the set temperature. All user buttons will be functional.
After the System has been powered-up and the pumps have been primed, make a final voltage check at the System terminal block.

Voltage Check:

1. Activate the low speed of the pump.
2. Adjust the temperature to turn on the heater.
3. Activate any other equipment that does not turn off the heater.
4. Activate the light.
5. Check the voltage.

The voltage for 230V systems should be 207-253 between line and neutral.

Note: If the voltage is not within tolerance while the System is operating as described above, turn off the power at the main power panel and correct the problem before continuing to operate the System.